2011 toyota tundra 5.7 transmission dipstick location

I have a 2005 Tundra DC, V-8. I checked my owner's manual and it appears this is a 2UZ-FE Engine, since the oil dipstick is on the right (driver's side). On the 1GR-FE Engine, the oil dipstick is on the left. In both diagrams, the OEM manual does NOT show any transmission dipstick and no reference to checking the ATF level is provided. The only reference I can see to ATF in the manual is for some kind of ATF temperature warning light.

Oddly enough, in the Haynes manual it shows a photo of an engine where there is a Transmission dipstick in the upper right of the engine bay. I checked, double checked, and triple checked and there is no such dipstick on my vehicle.

My question is am I missing something, or is there no transmission dipstick for checking ATF level and for refilling after flushing? If so, what is the recommended service procedure for ATF on this vehicle, if any? Is the procedure more complicated or does Toyota just not recommend flushing/refilling on this vehicle at all?

Thanks in advance.

or does Toyota just not recommend flushing/refilling on this vehicle at all?

it's a lifetime fluid. whatever that means.....

hang around or use the search. the info is here on how to do a flush.

I have a 2005 Tundra DC, V-8. I checked my owner's manual and it appears this is a 2UZ-FE Engine, since the oil dipstick is on the right (driver's side). On the 1GR-FE Engine, the oil dipstick is on the left. In both diagrams, the OEM manual does NOT show any transmission dipstick and no reference to checking the ATF level is provided. The only reference I can see to ATF in the manual is for some kind of ATF temperature warning light.

Oddly enough, in the Haynes manual it shows a photo of an engine where there is a Transmission dipstick in the upper right of the engine bay. I checked, double checked, and triple checked and there is no such dipstick on my vehicle.

My question is am I missing something, or is there no transmission dipstick for checking ATF level and for refilling after flushing? If so, what is the recommended service procedure for ATF on this vehicle, if any? Is the procedure more complicated or does Toyota just not recommend flushing/refilling on this vehicle at all?

Thanks in advance.

2004 was the last year Toyota provided a dipstick for the transmission. There is an excellent thread somewhere around here detailing how to check, change, fill, or flush the fluid on a truck with no dipstick. I started looking for it but need to get out and till the garden. Your transmission fluid breaks down (or shears) over time and does need to be changed. Heat accelerates this process.

No dip stick in your truck. Head to the dealer for quick and painless procedure.

I have a 2005 Tundra DC, V-8. I checked my owner's manual and it appears this is a 2UZ-FE Engine, since the oil dipstick is on the right (driver's side). On the 1GR-FE Engine, the oil dipstick is on the left. In both diagrams, the OEM manual does NOT show any transmission dipstick and no reference to checking the ATF level is provided. The only reference I can see to ATF in the manual is for some kind of ATF temperature warning light.

Oddly enough, in the Haynes manual it shows a photo of an engine where there is a Transmission dipstick in the upper right of the engine bay. I checked, double checked, and triple checked and there is no such dipstick on my vehicle.

My question is am I missing something, or is there no transmission dipstick for checking ATF level and for refilling after flushing? If so, what is the recommended service procedure for ATF on this vehicle, if any? Is the procedure more complicated or does Toyota just not recommend flushing/refilling on this vehicle at all?

Thanks in advance.

no dip stick on the o5 and newer tundras, to check the trans fluid , drive the truck for a few minutes so that trans fluid gets to normal operating temperature, the get under the truck and remove the "overflow plug" its located on the bottom of the trans fluid pan , you need an allen wrench to remove it. make sure you do not remove the drain plug by mistake, they are very different. the overflow plug is smaller and round and needs allen wrench to remove.

remove overflow plug
thin string of fluid comes out = fluid level is good put plug back before all fluid drains
no fluid or very little fluid comes out= level its low , add 1 qt and repeat steps

adding fluid. you need a hand pump.

remove the fill plug located by the tail housing where the shaft connects to the tranny its a big nut like a size 21mm or 22mm ( dont remember exactly)and pump the fluid through the hole

hi, no dip stick.
no such thing as life time fluid.
there claims are 90,000 miles.
BUT!!! there wrong, it all depends on many things.

i would add auto rx, 1st.
than find a T tech that knows how to do this.

1st the truck must be cold.
than it needs to be hooked up on a scanner,
than the fluid flush machine.
&
even than according to toyota, after the flush, the bands go out of wack, & the tranny starts to slip.
so be very careful.

add the auto rx, i did, mades a huge difference.
only peole who have tried it know, how it works, & why it is very important to do so.
good luck.
there is alot of info here.
gorilla

Personally I'd do what my local dealer (and Toyota) suggests.

Leave it alone.

Unless you use it in a way that might be considered abuse...........

Thanks for all the replies! I really would like to think I can leave it alone. And I probably will. It sucks they don't have a dipstick/fill port on the top of the engine, because it seems to make the procedure that much more difficult to have to use a pump.

If they're gonna make it that hard for me to do I think I will have to pass. I've been draining/filling on my other GM SUV every 30k and even installed a drain plug in the transmission pan. At least on that one after it's drained and a new filter installed I can easily refill from the top.

hi, it depends on many factors.
90,000 is recomended. but thats not always the case.
if you tow, if you off road, if you live in a hot all year round climate, etc...

my friend has a 06 double cab, his tranny started to slip or hand up in a specific gear.
he took me for 4 a ride.
i told him to add AUTO RX.
well he did, and just like majic the tranny started to act normal.

now, as many of you know, another friend is a master ASE & tranny tech.
he is the 1 who enlightened me to many issue's that tranny's have & why.
i belive i posted it somewhere here.
climate, city hwy, towing, off road, racing, wear, contam., brake down of the oil, etc.
so our tranny fluid is not necc. 90,000miles before a change.
be careful, when doing this, as per my dealership there claims are when you change the fluid the tranny slip's & the bands go out of wack. whatever that means.
wow, what kind of cheapo tranny do we have. to me thats like saying if you change your oil, your motor will start to knock.
bottom line, persoanlly im stocking up on AUTORX, it's no snake oil, i seen it work.
we put it in, cold start, the next day & the ride, started it up, shifted it in every gear:1st,2nd, 3rd, including reverse, park, neutral,while standing still. than went on the hwy.
OMG all his issue's are gone. tranny rebuilt $2600, new $3600, VS a $30 bottle of AUTO RX.
{"ill take the AUTO RX option"}
gorilla

What is the 'official' answer? A couple people posted 'lifetime fluid' which would appear to mean for however long you own the vehicle. Another said dealer said leave it alone. I assume that means indefinitely.

And where is this 90k recommendation coming from? Dealer or factory?

I have not checked my manual but I would think if they don't have any dipstick they don't care too much about the fluid. So maybe it is lifetime per the factory. I'll have to get around to double checking my manual for the service guidelines, and I think I'll go by whatever it says.

What is the 'official' answer?

Officially, and you can bank on this, nothing lasts forever. Fluid wears out through shearing and breakdown. This process is accelerated by hard use and heat. Internal wear is a simple fact of operation and dirty or worn fluid accelerates this process as well. The fluid has to be replaced at some point.

There are those who will tell you that to do a complete flush will cause leaks and it may if the seals have been coated with debris from wear and allowed to dry up and shrink. Run Auto Rx first before draining the system as it will both clean out all the debris, hold it in suspension, and recondition the seals.

i was being facetious when i said it was a lifetime fluid. that is what they call it. i think they refer to the life of the transmission, however long you get out of something that has never replace its fluid.

ALTHOUGH, my Ranger daily driver is on it's original fluid at 168k. i'm afraid to change or add fluid. it's made it this far......

What is the 'official' answer? A couple people posted 'lifetime fluid' which would appear to mean for however long you own the vehicle. Another said dealer said leave it alone. I assume that means indefinitely.

And where is this 90k recommendation coming from? Dealer or factory?

I have not checked my manual but I would think if they don't have any dipstick they don't care too much about the fluid. So maybe it is lifetime per the factory. I'll have to get around to double checking my manual for the service guidelines, and I think I'll go by whatever it says.

The way I read this, you bought it used. What did it do before you bought it? Bottom line is, if you dont know how the previous owner used/abused it, you really should consider changing all the driveline fluids. Even the dealer/manufacturer says replace at 90000 or whatever, OR, sooner if used under heavier conditions, like towing.
I bought mine used and since I dont know what the last owner did with it, I had the fluids changed. Now I know I can drive it for years because I dont tow with it or put it under extreme loads. A few hundred bucks or several thousand. No brainer for me

The way I read this, you bought it used. What did it do before you bought it? Bottom line is, if you dont know how the previous owner used/abused it, you really should consider changing all the driveline fluids. Even the dealer/manufacturer says replace at 90000 or whatever, OR, sooner if used under heavier conditions, like towing.
I bought mine used and since I dont know what the last owner did with it, I had the fluids changed. Now I know I can drive it for years because I dont tow with it or put it under extreme loads. A few hundred bucks or several thousand. No brainer for me

I agree - a few hundred bucks now or at least $3500 later for a new transmission.

I agree - a few hundred bucks now or at least $3500 later for a new transmission.

Agreed, I called my dealer the other day and they said a complete drain and refill with the WS? fluid would be $164.....yours may be cheaper if you don't need the WS...

I've only got 50K miles on mine and will be getting it done soon. :tu:

If it's only $164 I may consider... I think I have right around 90k. I don't want the 'lifetime' of my transmission to be prematurely reduced either.

But the fact that they make it harder for the DIY to do their trans by not having a dipstick/fill when probably 99% of other automatic trans vehicles do, kinda irritates me.

I have changed trans fluid on a manual transmission sports car before and used a pump and that wasn't very fun for me as well as messy since I don't have a lift at home.

Tranny, transfer, both diffs and grease the drive line for under $200 at the dealer is a good price. Plus for me I just did not want to waste the better part of a day twisted up under my truck. Much as I dont like paying someone else to do something I might be able to do, this one of the few that dealers dont seem to charge a lot for, that takes quite a bit of time.

My theory is that there is no dipstick so that some dipstick in a gas station won't just automatically top off your tranny with the wrong fluid. I think if you don't use the "TOYOTA WS" fluid your transmission will act strange.

Firestone at first quoted $140 for a flush then quoted $100 more ($240 total) with the WS fluid. I called the dealer and they said $250. So I just went with firestone because they were closer. According to their info fluid needs to be replaced every 60k and the filter 120-150k. As filter would have been $150 more, I declined because my truck is only at 85k now. I think it's well worth it since they hook up to a machine and it would seem doing it yourself is kinda messy and cumbersome, especially with no dipstick/fill port on the top.

1. There is no such thing as a "lifetime" lubricant in any production motor vehicle.
2. IMHO, I wouldn't feel comfortable with more than 30,000-35,000 miles on any ATF. Ever. Highway, city, offroad, towing, etc. The ratio of tranny replacement cost to fluid maintenance cost is so high that it pays to err on the side of caution.
3. Toyota saying that the 2005-on transmissions don't need the fluid changed = the transmission itself will be expected to require replacement at that interval. In other words, it is in Toyota's best interest to secure future transmission replacement income to the tune of $3,500+. Draw your own conclusions.
4. The procedure to drain/fill or do a complete exchange on A750X transmissions has different steps than the A340X trannys, i.e. different drain and fill points and a different level checking procedure (which simply entails a fluid temperature requirement -- 115-135F), but is still straightforward. It can be done in your driveway, but if you can get the dealer down to $175 or less for a flush, have them do it.
5. I highly recommend an Auto-Rx treatment prior to a complete flush. The link to their website in my sig line below.