2003 chrysler town and country transmission fluid type

Hi,

I changed transmission fluids and filter during the weekend. I used ATF+4 (Valvoline) as mentioned over and over on this forum. Unfortunately I didn't have access during the weekend for Mopar fluid so had to use other brand.

My minivan is Chrysler 2004 Town & Country Limited, 3.8 L, 2 wd and I have 142000 miles on it.

I was told that I need 4 qt but when filling I luckily checked after 3.5 qt and found my dip stick shoving low end on the "hot scale", naturally engine and fluids were cold.

I drain old oils by dropping oil pan. I replaced as well RTV seal by rubber seal which came with the transmission filter.

Please let me know how much fluid is needed and do I need to drain extra fluids around 1/2 qt?

Anyway I got leaking RTV seal fixed. No drips on the garage floor after two nights! I as well tightened transmission solenoid to prevent leak from there.

Thanks in advanced!

After dropping the pan, it should need a refill of at least 4 quarts. Did you check it on level ground, in P with the engine running, after being idled for 1 minute, and the tranny having been shifted through all of the available selections? That reading should be somewhere well inside of the cold marks. But using the cold marks becomes invalid at some point, if van was driven a number of (15 or so) miles prior to checking. Best to check it either completely cold using the cold marks, or fully hot (driven half an hour+) using the hot marks.

I find that driving about 15 miles or driving in town is required to bring it up to full temp. Best to check will it fully hot, and get the fluid level in the middle of the hot zone on dipstick. ATF expands greatly when hot, and having it over-filled can cause the fluid to froth causing transmission damage.

Recently after changing from gasket to RTV I found myself having to pull some fluid out of the tranmission because when it was fully hot, it was over-filled. It doesn't take much to over-fill. Usaully a pan pull will require somewhere between 3 to 4 qts...but you can really only get a good valid reading fully hot. Also, be careful reading the dipstick...sometimes it's difficult seeing exactly where the fluid is...I find it easier to see on the smooth side of the dipstick then turning it over.

See this Thread about reading the dipstick: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sh...information-from-your-transmission-s-dipstick

Sitting still, stone cold, mine shows about 1/2" above the full "hot" mark, actually it's at the bent portion in the dipstick.

Never paid much attention to the actual wording on my transmission dipstick until today. It has a lot of information such as:
- caution-do not overfill
- do not add oil if level is between lower holes for cold oil (80F) or the upper holes for hot oil (180F)
- use Mopar ATF+4 Type 9602
- idle in park

If too full you should be able to suction some out with this $5.00 siphon pump: http://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-Tools-SP6-Sportsman-Series/dp/B005VPU3T2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_12

I checked my 2002's transmission fluid level yesterday after a good 15 minute run. It was 3/16" below the hot full mark, i.e. perfect.

Oh yes, XPPilot, welcome to the Forum.

Thank you for your replies! I checked the quantity like I do engine oil check so my bad. I run engine warm and let it run for a min in idle and had to add 1 qt. to top cold range.

And thanks Jeepman for the welcome!

FYI. I had plenty of burned back lights on the A/C console and overhead console. I teared those to the parts and replaced mini bulbs during the holidays. At the mean time while doing that I documented the overhead console process due to I couldn't find any instructions. For A/C console I found instructions from YouTube, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZ7em-QkgiU. A/C console fix took less than two hours and cost $13.

Just to throw in my 2 cents: My '01 GCS, 3.3L takes 4-1/4 quarts of ATF if I drain it using my self-installed drain plug. If I pull the pan and replace the filter, it takes 4-3/4 quarts. I let it drain and drip for a while.

Bill

Bill, do have a part number and manufacturer where you bought the "self-installed" drain plug for the transmission pan.... I installed one of these about 1- years ago on a classic Chevy 327 with TH400 behind it and had problems with the plug sealing ? Ended up using JB Weld to anchor the drain plug housing to the pan... thanks Chris

Bill, do have a part number and manufacturer where you bought the "self-installed" drain plug for the transmission pan.... I installed one of these about 1- years ago on a classic Chevy 327 with TH400 behind it and had problems with the plug sealing ? Ended up using JB Weld to anchor the drain plug housing to the pan... thanks Chris

Hi chris a and welcome to the Forum. Here is a typical drain plug kit from B & M: http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/80250/10002/-1
Caution: The outer nut has to be restrained with a wrench while removing the plug to prevent the connection from loosening up and leaking.

Have you thought about pumping out the fluid instead with something as simple as this: http://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-Tools-SP6-Sportsman-Series/dp/B005VPU3T2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_12

Buffalo Tools SP6 Siphon Pump with 6-Feet Hose by Buffalo Tools

For small projects around the house and home workshop
- squeeze pump action
- transfers almost any liquid
- works at almost any level
- check valve for positive movement

Thanks for both replies, I'll check on purchasing the pan with the plug already mounted... I assume the recommended change interval is 30,000 miles on these vehicles especially if half the driving is in Boston commuter traffic ?

Thanks for both replies, I'll check on purchasing the pan with the plug already mounted... I assume the recommended change interval is 30,000 miles on these vehicles especially if half the driving is in Boston commuter traffic ?

Have you considered using a pump? or doing a non power flush (actually a complete fluid replacement) using your transmission pump?