2003 mazda protege head gasket replacement

2003 mazda protege head gasket replacement

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  • #1

2003 Mazda Protege 2.0 non-turbo 5sp manual (mods if in wrong location please move)
SO this is a long term project: Engine overheated, low compression on two cylinders and coolant in oil.

Thus far: Belts off, Crank balancer off, timing belt cover unbolted and removed, valve cover and coils off.

Next up is the intake manifold. This isn't my first rodeo, but I'm not seeing a way to get to the lower intake manifold bolts? I was thinking the best way would be to pull the upper/lower intake as a unit, is this the best way of doing it? Can I access the lower bolts from underneath? Doesn't look it but I wasn't under there long.

Exhaust manifold: looks miserable to disconnect from the downpipe, seems easier to unbolt it from the head (even if they shear, heads coming off and going to a machine shop anyway..)

Any tips for those that have done this before?

  • #2

If it was ran with coolant in the oil you might as well find yourself another engine. Coolant is very detrimental to bearings.

The whole intake can be pulled from the top. There are Youtube videos of the process, you'll need a long 3/8 extension, and a wobble really helps things along. There is a bracket that needs to be undone from underneath though. Unless you're gonna delete the butterflies, just pull the intake back from the head an inch or two and leave it there.

For the exhaust, remove the handful of nuts that hold the manifold to the head, then remove the 6 12mm nuts that hold the manifold to the precat. My car had 160k on it and it came apart without much trouble. Put some anti-seize on them when you go back together.

Make sure you send the head to a machine shop for dye testing and surfacing, this is not optional. Use a high quality (Fel Pro or OEM) head gasket and new head bolts, and follow the torque sequence in the FSM.

Installing the cams can be tricky, just take your time and again follow the FSM.

FSM:
http://web.archive.org/web/20061223062340/http://protege5.ugly.net/

Last edited: Aug 1, 2015

  • #3

^x2, and FWIW:
Yes, you can also take the lower half of the intake manifold off and then the upper half so you can expose and access those last manifold head bolts easier.

What is a head gasket?

The head gasket maintains a seal between the engine block and cylinder head. It prevents oil, coolant and combustion gases from escaping the engine.

How does the head gasket work?

Most engines have two major components: the engine block and the cylinder head. These two halves must seal to one another and act as one piece, or the engine will fail.

The head gasket is a sealing layer of durable material that is sandwiched between the cylinder head and engine block. When tightened down, the cylinder head crushes the head gasket into the cylinder block, causing any imperfections to be sealed by force.

When the head gasket begins to fail, the engine may have no symptoms at all. They only begin to occur when the leak has reached an engine oil passage, engine coolant passage or the engine cylinder.

When that happens, the engine may be very difficult to start, and run roughly when idling. There may be oil or coolant leaking, and the engine may begin to overheat, or at least run hot. At this point, there may be coolant in the engine oil pan — this will look creamy and lighter in color than the oil. Also, the radiator or engine coolant reservoir may have a gurgling sound, the presence engine oil, or smell of combustion. And the check engine light will come on.

The coolant being burned in the engine will produce white exhaust that smells sweet, like engine coolant. When the head gasket fails completely, the engine will overheat within minutes of starting, will stall and then won't restart.

Can I drive with a head gasket problem?

Driving with a bad head gasket is hazardous to the engine, and may even be impossible. A failing head gasket typically will lead to your engine overheating and will eventually ruin the engine block, cylinder head, or both.

A car with a blown or leaking head gasket should both be towed to a repair facility.

How often do head gaskets need to be replaced?

Head gaskets can fail at any time, but they typically last at least 100,000 miles, especially if the oil and coolant are properly maintained.

In order to keep the gasket in good condition, dirty or contaminated fluids should be replaced on schedule, and the engine must run at the proper temperature. This is the best way to help prevent head gasket failure, along with avoiding aggressive driving.

How many man hours does it take to replace a head gasket?

Replacing the gasket can take anything from six hours to a few days, depending on the severity of the failure. A blown head gasket is one of the biggest failures your car can suffer, and to fix it properly takes time.

How much does it cost to replace a head gasket?

How Much Does it Cost to Replace a Head Gasket? According to a national average, it costs between $1,624 and $1,979 for a head gasket replacement. The associated labor costs are estimated between $909 and $1147 while the parts themselves vary in the range of $715 and $832.

Can you replace head gasket without removing engine?

Because the head gasket seals the meeting point of the engine halves, you'll find it located about halfway down the engine. This means that, in order to replace it, you have to remove half of the engine — the more critical half at that.

Is it a big job to replace a head gasket?

Replacing a head gasket is a difficult job and should be left to skilled mechanics. Even if you have a friend who knows a lot about cars, it's a big job to trust to a weekend wrencher that usually takes specialty tools and a lot of experience.