I just purchased a 1998 Z3 and have been searching for information and advise replacement rear windows. All of the posts that I have found are about three years old and I am curious about more recent experiences. My top is in great shape but the rubber seal on what appears to be an OEM zip in window is beginning to separate from the window, no leaks yet.
I have found three potential replacement windows OEM
for @$350, Z3Window for @$205 and the Emiata for @100. A lot of posts say the Emiata is the way to go but I like the rubber seal feature of the OEM window. Some posts are leary of buying an OEM window because they are already 12 years old and it may be difficult to get the zipper started. I am thinking that the Z3window product may be my best bet. Does anyone have any knowledge of this product, quality, ease of installation etc. Price is not a major concern.
Probably the best, i have one on my M Roadster 2002 you will not ruin your top with glue. (BLACK SMOKE TINTED). http://cristal-cabriolet.fr/en/5-bmw-rear-screens
I used the z3 window and I
ordered the replacement with trim. I had it installed by a local shop and it's great. It seems to be made of heavier plastic than oem and American made
I have installed multiple OEM windows (10+) and the only issue I ever had was due to dry - rotted stitching in the top (IE: it would have ripped with any new window). I know others are available, but given that the OEM version is still readily
available, it's the one I choose.
-Todd
This looks like the Z3Window product except it is from France and only costs $137.89 at todays exchange rate. The current Z3Window site says that the window with trim is made in Germany and the one without trim is made in the USA. Looks like I have four windows to
choose from now. Thanks for the quick response and for your recommendation.- - - Updated - - -
Thanks for the response. I definitely want to get a window with the trim. It is good to hear from someone that is happy with the Z3Window.
- - - Updated - - -
Wow 10+ windows. I probably have the original top on my Z. I hope I don't have a problem with the zipper on the top. Many posts talk
about having difficulty getting the zipper started. Some posts talked about difficulty getting the zipper started in the right place. Getting the zipper started and in the right place the first try seems to be the hardest part of the job. Is it easy to get the OEM window zipper started properly the first try? Do you have a good source for the OEM window. Thanks for your advise.
I'm interested in
using the Z3Window.com product. Went online, selected the premium window with rubber bead, but had some sort of shopping cart malfunction and had to send them an email to sort it out.
Just to be clear, this is a legit company and so on? I see one person who reports success with them, is there anybody elese?
I don't know but their website certainly is great and has convinced me that the window
they sell is a very good one.
I chose the emiata window because my top was showing age and probably had 2 or 3 years left in it. No sense in spending big bucks on a window that was going in the trash in a couple of years. The emiata's glue feature is a bit of a pain, but with care and persistence, the result passes the 5 foot test - looks fine at 5 feet. It appears to be high quality plastic and is
holding up well with one year of use, no discoloration or scratches.
Z3Window people got back to me quickly and provided all the help I needed. Convinced me to proceed with the clear, premium, rubber sealed version, on sale $40 discount. Quote from local convertible shop was almost $600 for OEM window, installed. $225 to install if I provided it. Don't trust my own fumble fingers, so I will ask them
to do it.
I just put a new Emita window in my 2000 Z3 last week. I am very pleased with the outcome. I had a little trouble getting the top zipper and the window zipper lined. If you don't get the zippers lined at the right starting tooth you will get diagonal rinkles in your window and you need to restart a few teeth one way or the other. The directions explain how to determine to move, but' do not
tell you how many teeth to shift. It took me 3 or 4 tries before I got it right. As to the canvas bead, they give you a tube of contact cement to run around the window under the new window bead and over the old top bead. They did not furnish a nozzle to make it easy to get under the bead. This caused me to uses up all the glue before I got all the way around the window. I had to get more glue to finish the job.
I have a black top. The black cloth window bead matches perfectly and really looks
good. I let everything setup over night and hosed it down the next day. I'm pleased to say I have no leaks and the job looks great.
ww
I took the Z3Window product to a specialty convertible shop in Seattle that is well known and has a good rep with the local BMW CCA. Turns out that when they tried to install it it seemed too small! They even took pictures to show that
and were afraid that force fitting it could damage the top. So I had them put in a BMW OEM window instead, at much higher cost. They definitely know their stuff, but had never encountered Z3Window.com before. They had done plenty of OEM and eMiata installations with no problem.
So I contacted Z3Windows who were surprised at the problem, because as they explained, the windows are laser-cut to size and there's only one size for Z3. Z3Window said there have been many successful installations,
even by the car owner. I bought the one with the heavy duty premium window with rubber bead.
My suspicion is that the window feels so different from OEM that the installer was afraid to force it. So I don't really fault the product - just an unfortunate pairing of product and installer. Ironic since using a professional installer was meant to reduce the risk and increase the likelihood of a good installation.
I shipped the window back to Z3Window, and they gave me a refund of all
but the shipping cost. I can't fault Z3Window at all - they were very good to deal with. I am also happy with my new OEM window, but sorry I ended up paying so much more.
So, does the existing canvas edge around the rear window (that the oem rubber trim normally covers) tuck under the emiata trim or does it stay on top?
Sold: 98 M3/4/5 Techno Violet Sold:
07 Cayman S Sold: 98 Z3 M Roadster 00 Z3 M Coupe: TC Kline SA, Vorshlag Camber Plates, 255/35/18(F), 295/30/18(R) on APEX ARC8's
The OEM rubber trim is actually a channel that receives the edge of the canvas top. It is not seal, as that function is performed by double sided tape between the canvas top and the plastic window. The Emiata window is both trimmed and sealed by a canvas
edge, which is glued over the canvas top.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
A job for professionals, or very careful and patient DIYers. Tricks I learned the hard way: 1. Buy OEM window (choose clear or tinted), find a patient and careful helper 2. Tools; curved tip pliers, drill hole in tip of zipper pull, lace nylon thread thru and tie in 6" loop for
pulling. 3. Thread heavy needle with 18" of HD black thread. To sew up zipper bursts. 4. Carefully measure both bottom of opening and bottom of new window. 5. Using White-Out pen, mark fabric edges with dots at exact center of both hole and window. 6. Show helper how to hold new window in place (pillow to lean on over trunk helps) with dots aligned. I used large paper clamps on the fabric edges to hold in position. 7. Climb inside car with zipper pull, pliers and light, get
comfortable reaching back between seats 8. Have helper center dots, then hold bottom of new window to align zippers. 9. Muster all your patience and work zipper pull onto zippers while not moving dots out of alignment. 10. Slowly and carefully get zipper started, have helper hold pieces together, don't rely upon zipper to bring pieces together. When you get to the first corner, check to be sure dots are aligned. If not, unzip and start over. 11. Go slow on corners. If they fight
you, you may not have window centered. Check your dots. If not perfect, start over. 12. If zipped in when not centered, the window will strain against the zipper and produce diagonal ripples. Ripples means you have to remove and reposition window. 13. Before removing window, imagine if you could grab the two bottom corners of the new window, which way you would pull the vinyl window to straighten the ripples. The new position for the window is to move it slightly in the opposite
direction. Use Wite-Out pen to make a new dbl-dot 1/4" in opposite direction. This is new alignment dot. 14. Resist the temptation to use lube on zipper. I applied to zipper teeth and it made zipping the pieces together much easier, but the zipper began bursting open after install was complete forcing a spot repair. See #2 above for curved sewing needle and black thread. 15. After sewing over 3' of zipper bursts, I opted to replace the entire soft top with a factory sealed window.
Local specialty shop has done this on Z3s twice this year, charges $1400 incl parts. My top has a bunch of rub marks, so a new top will improve looks, and a brand new tinted window. 16. If had to do over would get Griots plastic polishes and go to work on original window.
Your tip No. 1 says the buy OEM window, but the end result was a fail based upon the zipper coming undone and a replacement
top. I've done this job with both OEM and emiata windows, and in my experience the emiata zipper and material are significantly superior to the OEM. I sent my OEM back in disgust and installed the emiata which was a much easier install to say the least. That was three years ago now and the emiata has held up perfectly without issue. Anyone contemplating this job should seriously consider the aftermarket alternatives, the OEM part is the low quality alternative.
Originally Posted by Mike Ph
A job for professionals, or very
careful and patient DIYers.... 15. After sewing over 3' of zipper bursts, I opted to replace the entire soft top with a factory sealed window. Local specialty shop has done this on Z3s twice this year, charges $1400 incl parts. My top has a bunch of rub marks, so a new top will improve looks, and a brand new tinted window. 16. If had to do over would get Griots plastic polishes and go to work on original window.
I bought an Emiata window but returned it untried because I
didn't like the look of the external sealing edge. I bought two OEM windows and returned them after messing up their zipper tabs, and the tab on the top. Like you I had a top shop replace the entire soft top, at the same price as yours. The window looks factory, but does not have a zipper, which means that when the window goes, another top is needed. If I had to do it over, I would take the car to a dealer or independent BMW shop that had done Z3 rear windows, and let them buy and install
an OE window.
Last edited by Vintage42; 09-09-2015 at 10:12 AM.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
Just did the emaita window; worked out fairly well, given the price. Some vertical waves; no diagonal ripples. Should seal well. Huge improvement.
Sold: 98 M3/4/5 Techno Violet Sold: 07 Cayman
S Sold: 98 Z3 M Roadster 00 Z3 M Coupe: TC Kline SA, Vorshlag Camber Plates, 255/35/18(F), 295/30/18(R) on APEX ARC8's
Man, after replacing entire tops, replacing the Z window is nothing!
Did my first and only one last fall on my 99 M Roady. I had my wife help and do the final sewing of the zipper. Took us a couple of tries before we got the window in straight but there was nothing scary
or shop worthy about it.
Originally Posted by Mr Bingley
Your tip No. 1 says the buy OEM window, but the end result was a fail based upon the zipper coming undone and a replacement top. I've done this job with both OEM and emiata windows, and in my experience the emiata zipper and material are
significantly superior to the OEM. I sent my OEM back in disgust and installed the emiata which was a much easier install to say the least. That was three years ago now and the emiata has held up perfectly without issue. Anyone contemplating this job should seriously consider the aftermarket alternatives, the OEM part is the low quality alternative.
I find this contrary to my experience. I have never had issues with the OEM zipper on the window. I have seen the stitching on the top side
of the zipper give way, but that was after 15 years in the CA sun.
-Todd
Bought emiata and fought with it. Even when it zipped smoothly and looked aligned I could not get the zipper to make the turn at the top corner. The top just seemed too small. In the end, I went with a new top altogether. Mine
was 14, scuffed and frayed a bit. All in, I was into for just about $1k. It looks Schweet.
image.jpg
Last edited by bigbird; 09-16-2015 at 06:50 PM.
Once the old window is out, the pressure is on to get the new window in. And if you can't, be glad it's summer and you have a garage and another car to use while figuring out your next move.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
I bought the Z3window best quality with the rubber bead. It was a bit of a wrestling match to get it in and eventually had to get the wife to help.
However, it does fit and the quality is very good. It was worth the hassle.
Originally Posted by Hazmat1
I bought the Z3window best quality with the rubber bead. It was a bit of a wrestling match to get it in and eventually had to get the wife to help. However, it does fit and the quality is very good. It was worth the hassle.
Sorry for
the 20 questions but it seems best to dig this up and check in on how your's is holding up Hazmat. I'm not in dire need of changing mine but I'd like to so it's mint. How's your Z3window replacement held up now that it's been 4 years? How's the scratch resistance? Any cloudiness or yellowing? Is the rubber bead still good? Also, did you happen to by the tinted one? That's ultimately the one I'd like to get.
My window is holding up great after 5 years and near constant top down use. It was definitely heavier gauge plastic and my installer said it took a little more effort to install. The trick is keeping the canvass edge under the rubber surround. It’s only held under the rubber surround by double sided tape and as the tops age they start to fray. Use a rolled up microfiber towel in the crease and one to line the top well to prevent scratches and creases. Roadster solutions might have
the padded covers.
Originally Posted by z3forlife
My window is holding up great after 5 years and near constant top down use. It was definitely heavier gauge plastic and my installer said it took a little more effort to install. The trick is keeping the canvass edge under the rubber
surround. It’s only held under the rubber surround by double sided tape and as the tops age they start to fray. Use a rolled up microfiber towel in the crease and one to line the top well to prevent scratches and creases. Roadster solutions might have the padded covers.
I watched a z3 window install vid and saw them tuck the canvas after the window was fully zipped. I’m not sure what brand window it was though but it had a small channel for the canvas. He also zipped it on the first try
in like 5 minutes but the guy was a pro. He didn’t double side tape but I could see clearly where that would go while he was tucking. I was quoted 250 for the install at an upholsterer next to the bmw tech I went to see this week. Not outrageous but it seems like a pretty straightforward install and I’m considering diy for the experience. It’s one of those things I’d rather do myself if I can than wait around at a shop for it to be done. I wouldn’t tint my own windows though so maybe not this
either.. not sure yet.
Looked in roadster solutions and didn’t see anything. I’ll try the rolled towel and a pool noodle tomorrow. See how they work out
